Latok is an impressive mountain range located in the Karakoram, in the Panmah Muztagh mountain group. While the peaks in this region are not the highest, they are distinguished by pointed shapes and powerful, virtually vertical walls. It has such a wall, which is 7145 m above sea level. Latok I peak - a wall that has never been fully conquered by a man, although this challenge was undertaken by the most outstanding climbers in history.
In the summer of 2018, this risky task was undertaken by two Russian climbers: Sergei Glazunov and Alexander Gukov. Unfortunately, the expedition did not end happily for them.
Unhappy climbing day
The northern wall, vertical and over 2 kilometers high, is the dream of many climbers. Alexander Gukov and Sergey Glazunov already had one unsuccessful attempt to climb this impassable road in 2017. In the summer of 2018, they decided to face the challenge again. They started climbing on July 8. On July 25, when they were already above 6,000. m a.s.l., they decided to retreat again. That's when the tragedy happened. Sergei Glazunov fell off the wall, the rope failed to hold him. A few days later, the helicopter pilots noticed his body at the base of the massif.
Alexander Gukov saw his friend die. He was left alone on the wall. In addition, no climbing equipment and no food, because everything flew with Sergei Glazunov. His satellite phone batteries were running out. However, he sent a message to the coordinator of the expedition, Anna Piunowa: “I need help. I have to be evacuated. Sergey flew. I was left with no equipment. "
A dramatic rescue operation
The Russians immediately began preparations for a rescue operation. This one, however, was extremely complicated. The vertical, extremely extreme nature of the northern pillar of Latok I practically ruled out starting the rescue operation on foot, although professional climbers, who were then in Karakoram, expressed their willingness to participate. Let us remember, however, that Gukov with Glazunov, over 6,000 meters climbed almost 2 weeks!
The only chance to save Gukov was to pick him up from the air. This was also an extreme challenge - not only because of the altitude (Gukov was stuck at around 6,200 m above sea level), but also the fact that the helicopter would have to come extremely close to the mountain wall in order to allow the climber to evacuate.
The weather gave no hope
A decision was made to conduct a rescue operation from the air. The race against time has begun. Unfortunately, in order for the departure of two military helicopters of the Pakistani Army to be possible, the weather was necessary: perfect visibility and practically no wind. This one, however, did not come. Falling snow, a lot of fog and strong wind made it impossible to leave at all for several days. Several times the Pakistani pilots attempted to take off, but did not reach the required altitude. There was less and less time and hope.
Half a Snickers and melted snow
Aleksander Gukov was left alone in the wall. He is the only one who knows what thoughts he had to fight in those difficult moments. Satellite phone showed 1% battery. He only managed to send a few messages from it. He reported that three days after his partner died, he managed to pitch a tent on a small rock ledge. He did not have food - he only found half a Snickers, which must have given him the energy to survive, he himself did not know how long. Fortunately, at least he had a gas stove with him, which allowed him to melt the snow and obtain drinking water.
Gukov did not give up. He sat waiting to be rescued. And while he himself was aware that the weather made it impossible to operate, he could hear the sound of the helicopter blades. This gave him hope that his friends would not let go and try to save him.
The rescue came after a week
There was no contact with Gorkov for several days - the battery in his phone was dead. There were concerns about his health and exhaustion. Can a man who has undertaken such extreme exertion as mountain climbing and has been trapped at high altitudes for a week survive with half a Snickers and melted snow at his disposal?
The weather was still far from perfect. However, the pilots decided to attempt a reconnaissance flight. However, they flew higher than planned and noticed Gukow's tent covered with snow. They knew it was now or never. A long rope was thrown from one machine. The co-pilot guided the first so that the positioning of the machine would allow Gukov to attach himself to the dropped rope. He caught her. Unfortunately, he forgot to remove himself from his position. Fortunately, the ice screws released and Gukov, extremely exhausted but conscious, found himself aboard the helicopter.
This story proves that you should never lose hope and must fight to the end. Even when the phone is dead and we are left with half a bar and some melted snow.